14.01.2020

Wheel Horse 416 Hydro Manual

Wheel Horse 416 Hydro Manual Average ratng: 7,1/10 581 votes

Hello, just found this site. I recently got this WH with a lot of hours on it (almost exclusively was used as a mowing machine).

ManualHydro

Engine still runs great, tractor has some minor issues here and there. What I don't really understand, is this problem with the drive belt. Everything works fine when the clutch is depressed (starting, changing gears). But when going into neutral und then letting the clutch go, the belt almost starts to 'jump' (if you take your foot off the clutch pedal, it then starts to jiggle too).

You can hear it clearly over the sound of the Kohler. I already took the sheet cover off to take a closer look. I think that maybe the idler pulley(or where it is mounted) could be 'bent' a little(!) bit (the side which is nearer to the rear axle is slightly rotated to the outside). The belt jumps between the pulley and the belt guard, still the clutch seems to work perfectly. When not in neutral, I guess the problem is still there, but to a smaller extent (it seems(!!) like: the more speed(higher gear), the less belt rattling). I don't have any experience with this machines, but does this sound like a belt caused problem?

Toro 416 Hydro

I know more about hydro-drives than manuals. Could the 8-speed be responsible for the hopping belt while in neutral, or is it likely all caused by an old, outworn belt?

The belt does not look too bad, but certainly has seen better days. The WH pulls strong, so there shouldn't be any significant belt slipping. Last question: Is a rattling (rather than a slipping -hydro) belt a common problem, when the belt is near the end of its life, or does this sound more like a mechanical related issue (drivetrain, pulley,.)? Unfortunately, I haven't shot any pictures yet. Any help is appreciated. Any signs of the idler or bracket coming into contact with the belt guard?

The part you speak of that looks bent, often looks like this. It's there to keep the belt on the pulley when the clutch is pushed in, as well as touching the belt to help stop it when the clutch is depressed, but it should not touch when the clutch pedal is up. Does the noise change if you push the clutch in SLIGHTLY? With the belt guard in place, if you touch the outside of it, can you feel a vibration in it like something is moving against it? Couldn't be a loose bolt on the guard or close by bodywork that's doing it's best to fool you is there? Long shot, but darn cheap fix!

It sounds a little like the belt is simply worn a little bit, allowing the idler pulley to rotate farther up when the clutch is engaged. Those belts are not cheap though, and I'd hate to have you buy a new one just to have the same thing, especially if it's still working well otherwise. Well, the noise doesn't bug me too much.

It's just a lot of vibration, but then I'm not used to this older machines (vs old diesel tractors (without belts) and new lawn tractors with hydro drives (belts stay in the same position all the time)). I seem to have made a mistake when I mentioned the 'belt guard'. What I ment was this 'thing' which keeps the belt on the pulley, when the clutch pedal is depressed. When the belt starts to 'hop' (after disengaging the clutch), it doesn't really stay on the idler pulley and there seems to be a lot of play then especially when in neutral.

The question is, can there really be too much play (enough to cause this kind of vibration), while there is enough pulling power when in gear? It's not the 'belt stopper' that is slightly bent, but the pulley itself is not exactly in line with the two pulleys on the engine and drivetrain (the side nearer to the engine points inside, the side nearer to eh rear points outside). Do these belts eventually fail, or do you have to replace them before they tear the tractor apart?

Manual

The 8-Speeds take the 90W gear oil, where as the hydros take regular engine oil 10w-30 / 10w-40. I have not used Mobil 1 in my hydro only regular old dino oils, but I think that the Mobil 1 would be perfect in the hydro because of the properties of the synthetic. Either way, get the gear oil out of there and put in engine oil. If you didn't change the filter, you should. Manual repair chrysler shadow 87. These filters do not bypass when clogged and will affect the performance of the trans. The recommendation I think is 100 hours or every year. Hope this helps.